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Deepak Perwani made a much needed comment on the recent streak of social activism in Karachi, where the words FIX IT were stenciled across town, addressing government authorities to ‘fix it’. Fashion needs more political commentary.
#open #letter #fashion #designers #Fashion
Fashionahead
It is April 3rd.
Today is a few weeks after the end of PFDC Sun Silk Fashion Week (PSFW) in Lahore and almost four days before the start of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) in Karachi. Together, these two fashion weeks stand for two of the country’s most trusted, fashion-forward platforms. Other fashion weeks have emerged but they – and I don’t say this enough – do not serve fashion.
Between PSFW and FPW, more than 30 trusted and most talented designers will cement their place in the industry. They will remain relevant in the designs they propose, the innovations they make and the trends they set. They will make the necessary journey from runway to retail (many of them have standalone stores, not just a retail presence) and ultimately, they will help the fashion industry become a true commercial platform that thousands of people can use. It provides employment and income to hundreds if not hundreds.
While everything is hanky-dory, there are some issues that designers can look for and try to fix before it’s too late.
Dear Designers,
1 No one is perfect except God, least of all designers. Then why, oh why, can you not accept that your collections may be wonderful, wonderful and less than perfect? Please start taking constructive criticism constructively. A little dignity and goodwill won’t hurt. You’ve all become so used to social media self-promotion and mass hysteria (much of which you’ve paid for yourself) that you can’t digest a single word of criticism, no matter how small. Why not be helpful? You need to change that because it is very offensive to hear your rant against ‘so and so journalist’ whose credibility depends on whether he liked your collection or not. Believe me when I say that the word always gets around.
2 Do not plagiarize. It doesn’t do much for your reputation. Rest assured that Instagrammers and bloggers will find you and be proud to have managed to find the source of every inspired/copied/plagiarized print or design out there. If your outfit looks like it was invented by someone in the world, there’s a good chance someone will post it and pull the rug from under your feet. Why take the risk, especially since there are apps to scan the image and identify the source?
3 Try to put fashion into context. This is a serious request because many of you will not even understand what it means. Fashion is considered clothing beyond its utilitarian use. Beautiful clothes always sell but how many of you actually think about identity when you design? Fashion is considered political, anthropological. It is supposed to be a reflection of the times in which we live. So why aren’t any of you designing with identity crisis, global warming, deforestation or political chaos in mind? Why does fashion only translate to salable clothes for most of you? Where are the statements, signatures and social commentary that make fashion relevant in the grand scheme of things? Everyone wants to make money (and most of you are doing a great job at it), but a top designer is someone who won’t compromise their personal aesthetic and ethics for a line: “This is what sells.” is.” It’s your job to design and influence women to achieve your vision, not the other way around.
4 Pay attention to the details, and I give this instruction to the designers who will be exhibiting at the upcoming Fashion Pakistan Week. This is something I (and the entire front row) saw at PSFW. It’s time designers started taking notice of the whole look and not just the clothes. Jewelery sharing is an important part of most fashion week collections these days and many designers are also creating accessories to complement their clothes but shoes are undoubtedly the most neglected aspect. We see that when a designer goes the extra mile to get the shoes just right. And we see when we see a variety of ugly platforms, block heels, wedge heels, flats, etc. on the catwalk. There should be harmony in the eyes. There was a time when designers could not understand the meaning of ‘collection’ but now that this harmony has been established, it is time to walk the extra mile and get the whole look right.
The author is editor, Instep. She blogs at www.somethinghaute.com and can be followed on Twitter @aamnaisani
